Wine Tasting In the Etyek Region

Did you know that Hungary is well-known in Europe for its wine production? I always thought that was France’s job, but, in fact, Hungary has 22 thriving wine regions. I had no idea how good their wine was until last spring when I decided to have a glass of Hungarian white wine at a popular wine bar in London – it was delicious!

So, after my encounter in the spring, I knew I needed to experience it first hand while I was in Budapest. Luckily, this great wine region is only about 30 minutes outside Budapest so it was perfect for a day trip.

Etyek or “Valley of the Beauty” is Hungary’s youngest but fastest growing wine region. Because most wineries are small here, some being family-owned, you have more time to spend at each winery and are even given close personal attention by the staff and sometimes the owners themselves.

The region sits on the same latitude as the Champagne region in France so it’s a good climate for whites. In fact, the region is known for specializing in excellent Chardonnay, Italian Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.

There were eight of us on our tour with Gabor, our very informative guide, who explained a little about the region to us on our short drive from Budapest.

There are about 25 good wineries (and many that are small cellars) in the Etyek wine region of Hungary, but we only visited two: Anonym Winerary and Visi Winery.

Anonym Winery was the first winery we went to. The modern building was set in a beautiful landscape of vineyards nestled in to the surrounding area. It was clear this was a family home as well, seeing as how there were a few toys scattered in the backyard. It was a rather endearing sight to see.

Our host Peter explained that the name of each wine was actually inspired by the owner’s children. Fresh bread with pumpkin and olive oil spreads were placed on the table for us to enjoy between each sample. I had never had pumpkin seed oil before as a dipping sauce but it was incredibly delicious! We sampled four different wines – two whites, a rose and a pinot noir. My favorite was the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, named “Frazir”.

After the tasting and a walk around the vineyard to take in the beautiful sight (and clear our heads a bit), we headed to the next stop, Visi Winery, which gave a completely opposite “old world” feel, almost like we had traveled back in time.

When we got to Visi Winery, the owner himself greeted us with fresh bread and a Hungarian goose liver appetizer he made earlier that day (talk about personal attention). We were given four tastings: two whites, a rose and a very rare Pinot Noir. I must admit I normally prefer white wine, but this rare red was delicious. He actually hand siphoned the wine out of an oak barrel and gave us all a taste. I think knowing it was rare made it taste even better. At the very end of the tasting, he offered us a bonus sample of something called palinka (a Hungarian traditional plum brandy). That stuff will knock your socks off, so consider yourself warned!

I loved the charm of this very small old fashion cellar with its old school thermometers on the ceiling. You could see remnants of its beginning throughout the winery – like a cellar door and the words “established in 1836” written above it. Pictures of days long passed were scattered about on the cellar walls of men drinking in those actual cellars. It was all very nostalgic to say the least.

I enjoyed my day in Etyek drinking specialty wines of the region. I loved the charm of the small venues and the extra personal attention we received at each. If you are in Budapest, I highly recommend taking a day tour here – even if you don’t drink wine, the scenery is beautiful and getting away from all the noise for a little bit is quite refreshing. I have not had an easy time finding wines from this region here in the States but will keep looking …. or maybe it’s just another reason to go back to Hungary and try another one of the wine regions. I guess I have some thinking to do!