The Danube Bend (Dunakanyar) is a wonderful day trip just north of Budapest and its towns are not only picturesque but very historical. This is home to some of the oldest settlements in Hungary). If you want to experience a little of how they might have traveled through the region, there are many boats that take you there from Budapest to the area, but if your “sea legs” aren’t strong then you can take the bus as well (which is what we did on our way out).
Our first main stop was at the border of Slovakia and Hungary at the city of Esztergom, one of the oldest towns in Hungary. We did make a brief stop just before on the other side of the river crossing over on the Mária Valéria Bridge for some photos, so I can officially say I have visited Slovakia as well (which is stretching it but true!).
Esztergom is often called City of St. Stephen and the Hungarian Rome because it was here where the first king of Hungary (Saint/King Stephen) was born and crowned. It is also significant as it is the seat of the Hungarian Catholic Church and was the capital of the State until the 13th century. So, if you are a history buff, this is for you! The jewel of the city is the Esztergom Basilica.
The Esztergom Basilica is the largest church in Hungary (third largest in Europe) – its 72-meter-high central dome can be seen for miles. The original 12th century church was destroyed by the Turks and the building of the present-day church was started in 1822. The Bakócz Chapel inside is the highlight of the basilica with the beautiful Italian Renaissance carvings and sculptures throughout. However, several of the sculptures are missing heads as the Turks destroyed them with axes.
An incredibly large and stunning painting by Girolamo Michelangelo Grigoletti is the altarpiece. It is the largest painting in the world that was painted on a single piece of canvas and is absolutely breathtaking. Beautiful Italian red marble make up many of the walls. Make sure to look closely for the fossils encapsulated within the stone!
Walking distance from the Basillica is the former royal palace. I found out very quickly that it is not your typical European palace but has an interesting history. It was originally built by French architects in the 12th century during Esztergom’s Golden Age but largely destroyed by the Turks. Much of the medieval stone masonry remains, however it’s mixed with modern brickwork, which I think gives it some character. If you have time, there’s also a museum if you want to learn more about it’s history.
After Esztergom, we traveled to the next city, Visegrad, for lunch at a placed called Vadaszcsarda Nagyvillamon. The restaurant is located on top of a hill which gave us an incredible view of the charming town. Not far was the Visegrad Citadel which was built in 1259 as a repository for the Hungarian crown jewels. This castle looked like what you imagine with a moat and everything. And the view was absolutely spectacular!
Our final destination was the town of Szentendre. Not far from the previous two towns, this one does not have the royal history like the others but more of a historical “artsy” feel. There was a mass influx of Serbians in 1690 so the buildings in the city center still reflect this Serbian-Orthodox influence in their architecture. The beautiful Memorial Cross on the main square erected in 1763 is the symbol of the town. It was also dedicated by the town’s people in gratitude for being spared from the plague. Another highlight of the main square is the Blagovestenska Church, an elaborate baroque church built in 1754.
Today, this little town hosts dozens of art museums, galleries, handicraft shops and churches. An artist colony was established here in the 1920s and is still a famous spot for art and artists alike. It was fun walking around this village admiring all of the handicrafts in the shops.
And so, our lovely day of exploring the Danube Bend came to an end. A boat departed directly from Szentendre to Budapest. We took the 5:00 and arrived only about an hour later … just in time to have a nice dinner in Budapest that evening after a great day of adventure.
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