Brasov is one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns. It offers a taste of romantic charm with a sprinkle of modern-day fun. In my last castle report, I mentioned that the Teutonic Knights (an order that is still around to this day) built Bran Castle. Well, not only did they build Bran Castle, but they also built the nearby city of Brasov in 1211. Later, this city grew into a Saxon settlement with ornate churches and massive defensive walls, parts of which still stand today.
So, just a little more history to set the tone: The city had a troubled past and needed defensive fortifications, which were added between the 15th and 17th centuries. When walking the city, you will see these walls and defense towers still standing, as they were built to withstand all attacks (even the attack of time). Seven bastions were raised at exposed points in the city which were defended by specific guilds (for example, the Linen Weavers’ Bastion, built in 1421, pictured below). Talk about team work!
With this history in mind, it was so interesting walking around and actually experiencing the remnants of a medieval city under constant attack. You have to wonder how the citizens ever got any sleep! The Brasov Fortress, part of Brasov’s outer fortification, is on top of Cetatuia hill strategically overlooking the town. In the 1400s, wooden protective walls were erected here but were replaced with a stone citadel in 1553 (much more effective if you ask me). When technology made cannons stronger than the stone citadel walls, the Fortress was made into a prison. Until recently, it was turned into a restaurant and now it is vacant. You can still walk around the perimeter of the large fortress and try to imagine how important these initial walls were for the protection of the city. It is for sale, by the way, if you’re in the market for a cool medieval dwelling.
After walking around the citadel, we went straight to the most popular spot to view what remains of the original wall, Dupa Ziduri Alley (The Alley Behind the Walls). It was interesting to see the moss growing in between the crevices and imagine all the battle action they have endured since their beginning. Above on the hillside, are two towers that were built in the late 15th century to watch over old Brasov – the White Tower and the Black Tower - which offer city views from their rooftops. The Black Tower pictured below (obviously not black but very much white) got its name from a fire in 1649 that blackened its exterior.
Ecaterina (Catherine’s Gate) is the only original city gate to have survived from medieval times. It was built in 1559 by the Tailors’ Guild and for centuries was the principle entrance into the walled medieval city and the only one that Romanians were allowed to enter through to sell their goods during Saxon rule. You can’t miss it as it looks more like a small castle from afar with its three levels topped with five turrets – it’s a beautiful piece of architecture if you ask me.
The Black Church (Biserica Neagra), an impressive Gothic-style church, is over 600 years old and is the largest hall church east of Vienna. It took centuries for the construction and completion of the church. It was started in 1383 and finished in 1477 due to the constant attack of the city during that time. To make matters worse however, the Great Fire of 1689 burned much of the building and was named accordingly because of its blackened color from the flames.
After visiting The Black Church, we then headed to the Old Town part of the medieval city which is now the “new” in that this is prime real estate for restaurants, lively cafes and shops. You will notice that parking is a premium here – not because there are so many people, but these streets were not designed to have so many cars. Few people could afford them until the Communist government fell.
It is here where you will find the 17th century Strada Sforii (Rope Street) – one of Europe’s narrowest streets (once used by firefighters). Can’t find the street on your own? Just look for the Rope Lady (pictured below) and she will point you in the right direction. The City has a designated area as a “guest book wall” on Rope Street to discourage graffiti in other areas, which is pretty smart if you ask me.
If you keep walking down Rope Street, you will find yourself in Council Square (Piata Sfatului). Here you will find an interesting building that looks like a church but was actually the old city hall. Now it serves as the Brasov History Museum. There are also more cafes and nice benches to sit and soak in the scenery – here you will truly see a mixture of medieval buildings and eclectic architecture.
If you look at the hill above the city (Mt. Tampa), you will see that the town has its very own Hollywood-type sign that is visible even outside Brasov. Gory fact: it is the site of a mass-impaling of 40 noblemen by Vlad Tepes. In the early 1950s, authorities planted fir trees so that the word “Stalin” could be seen for miles (for 10 years the city name was changed to Stalin). Natural vegetation, with probably a little man-made help, eroded the word Stalin. The huge white BRASOV sign was mounted in its place in 2004. You can take the tram to the top or take a hike through wilderness to reach it. Although we didn’t hike to the very top, we did walk through some of the woodsy area and saw warning signs of the wildlife we might encounter along the way. Luckily, we didn’t spot any bears or vipers.
Very shortly after leaving Brasov, we saw vast green hills and farm land, with countless sheep feeding. From medieval churches and fortresses to easy-going cafes – Brasov is a fun place to stroll a day or two mixing mostly history with a little modern.
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