When I think of any countries capital, I think of big cities with lots of people and probably some form of traffic but Ljubljana wasn’t anything like a D.C. or a Paris, despite it being the “largest” city in Slovenia. It’s eclectic architecture blended perfectly with the surrounding nature. In fact, it has been called Europe’s Green Capital, and I can see why! And as a bonus, it was so easy to get around! So lets jump in to some of the amazing things I saw and did in this beautiful capital city of Slovenia!
First, I just have to address the incredibly varied architectural styles represented in Ljubljana with a little history lesson. Ljubljana was first formed in the 1st century AD as a small Roman village but changed hands of rule frequently throughout the Middle Ages until 1335 when the Habsburgs in Austria took control. This same dynasty kept power until the end of WWI in 1918. Hard to believe they kept control of the city for all those years, isn’t it!? While they were in power, a devastating earthquake hit the city in 1511 which destroyed much of the medieval structures causing a time of massive reconstruction in the 17th and 18th centuries. As a result, there are many beautiful pale-colored baroque churches and mansions, as that was the style of the day, which still remain standing today. Then another massive earthquake hit in 1895, forcing the Habsburgs to rebuilt parts of the city again. Many buildings were redesigned in the art nouveau style, still remaining in the city’s architectural landscape today. And so, there is now a glorious eclectic of design that we see in the city today. You would think this would seem disconnected but on the contrary, everything blends perfectly.
Now that we got that out of the way, let’s look at transportation around the city. The easiest way to get around is actually by foot. Remember how I said this wasn’t like any big city capital you typically think of? Well, one of the reasons why is that the city doesn’t allow cars in its city center. Really great, right? There are free electric trams which operate kind of like a “hitch-hiker” system. But from what I saw, it was slower than walking so I would skip the hassle unless you are super tired and need a break.
The oldest part of town lies on the east bank of the Ljubljanica River with the majority of the galleries and museums on the west side of the river.
As I mentioned, colorful buildings and blends of architecture, like baroque and art nouveau, are everywhere. The Indian House is one of the most colorful buildings with a combination of the national Slovenian colors of red and blue.
The city has bridges which make it easy to navigate but don’t forget to take a look at each one thoroughly when crossing – they are all beautiful, interesting and many have unique details that are easy to miss. Some are symbolic like the Dragon Bridge (the dragon is the symbol of the city). Shoemakers Bridge was built in the 30’s imitating the classic Roman architecture but fun elements were added for flair and detail. Butchers Bridge is not the most romantic name, yet this is Ljubljana’s answer to bridges found in other cities around the world where lovers put padlocks on the bridges. Then there’s the Triple Bridge, which is especially celebrated by the locals as it was designed by superstar architect Jože Plečnik (he designed so much of this city that it is sometimes referred to as "Plečnik's Ljubljana").
Preseren Square (Presernov Trg), named after the famous Slovenian poet, is the centerpiece linking the Center district and the Old Town. The bright pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, along with a statue of Preseren, dominate the square and forms the backdrop for many photos in Ljubljana. The church was built between 1646 and 1660 replacing an older church on the same site. You can take a peek inside to see the beautiful detail and frescoes. To the left of the main alter is a glass-fronted coffin with the remains of St. Deodatus – just a little eerie.
The Central Market area is huge and a great place to stroll. Not only can you find fresh local produce, fish and deli items but nice handmade souvenirs as well. A food fair with international dishes are prepared here as well if you want to eat something on the spot. This is an open-air market but if you prefer to stay inside, the Covered Market is very close too.
Nearby the open air market is the Cathedral of St Nicholas (also known as the Cathedral of Ljubljana). Interesting enough, a church has stood here ever since the 13th century but, the one we see standing today dates back to the start of the 18th century. What’s even more interesting about this church is that the stunning outside doors (modern sculptures) were added very recently in 1996. The main door tells the story of Christianity in Slovenia and the six bishops on the other door represent the history of the Ljubljana diocese. There is beautiful detail inside the church as well so do take some time to be impressed – and don’t forget to take a look at the detail on the ceilings too. Beautiful fresco paintings cover the inside dating mainly from the 18th century.
The city’s oldest quarter is rightfully named Old Town (Staro Mesto). This is where you can find the Town Hall which was originally built in the late 15th century but was rebuilt in 1718 (remember the earthquakes). The outside is a simple baroque style, but we went inside and were impressed by the Gothic courtyard in the center of the three levels of administrative offices. The courtyard is filled with museum quality articles, paintings, and other historical items from the city – some dating back to the 17th century. It is definitely worth popping in to see. But the true heart of Old Town is Stari Trg with 19th century wooden front shops, medieval houses, and quaint cobblestone passages.
I must point out that Ljubljana Castle is a main sight located on Castle Hill east of Old Town. We decided not to make the trip up the hill as the line for the funicular (tram) was long and we decided not to spend precious time waiting but instead wanted to explore the nuances of the city. That’s the difficult thing about travel…there is never enough time to do it all.
There are certainly many places to eat in Ljubljana, but we chose to have lunch at an outside cafe overlooking the river. There were a few small tour boats cruising down the river that we noticed while dining, which would offer a unique perspective of the city cites, but we decided to stay on land this time. Some people were paddle boarding as well, which would’ve been a lot of fun, especially since the weather was so perfect and relaxing at the time.
I know I keep saying that Slovenia is a country that really surprised me and some of the cities were such a joy to visit, but I just have to say it again about Ljubljana. It was such an easy city to walk around and the sights were incredibly beautiful. I must say that it is probably the cleanest capital city I have ever toured. I’d be curious to see if you think the same.
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