In my last blog post I talked about the magically medieval city of Sighisoara, Romania in Saxon Land. The next city we were planning to visit in this area of Transylvania was Sibiu however there were a few more remote fortified villages that we came across along the way, one of which was a town called Biertan.
Biertan was first mentioned in documents in 1283 as a small, somewhat insignificant little village. It wasn’t until 1490, however, that it was truly put on the map, as that was when the fortified church was built, which is why that little town of Biertan became famous. Purposely perched high on a hill for defense against Turkish invasions, it was built with three tiers of 35-foot-high defense walls connected by various towers and gates making the church impossible to conquer during medieval times. Weeds and wildflowers now growing in between the crevices of the original walls only adds to the beauty and speaks to the test of time this church has gone through!
The defense structure outside the church is impressive, really showcasing its purpose as protection against the Turks instead of just being there for ornate detail. The doors are heavy, and the double exterior walls are beyond sturdy and honestly kind of ominous.
The outer defenses were in stark contrast to the inside where large ceilings loomed with beautiful Gothic design. Of course, as I mentioned in my last post, Saxon Land was heavily influenced by the Germans so that was definitely apparent in the wood details, walls and furniture.
The alter was built in 1483 to 1513 by artisans from Vienna and Nurenberg. The detail on the paintings is remarkable – especially considering the age. Many of the tapestries are centuries old. Although a bit tattered, they are still incredible.
You can still admire many of the towers surrounding the church like the clock tower and the Prison Tower. Fun fact: Couples seeking divorce were locked in the Prison Tower for two weeks. They could then make a final decision about going through with the divorce after two weeks. In 400 years, only one couple decided to actually go through with the divorce. How’s that for couples therapy?!?
We walked back down the hill and found some unexpected surprises, making us step back into more recent history. In a town so slow paced where horses and carts are the norm, it was surprising to see a car driving alongside farmers congregated on the street with their horses. I guess some things never change.
Biertan is a land of golden cornfields, quaint pastel-colored houses, and layers of history. Although the fortified church was the main attraction of this little town, my favorite part was vendors selling handmade clothing and food. We bought a few items from a lovely young woman named Carmen and her mom. They were eager to show us how they added distinct detail to their work, making the pieces even more special. Then, behind a church we came across a group of ladies hand cracking walnuts. So, we bought some and for some reason, they seemed more delicious than store bought nuts, even though they were just plain and simple walnuts.
On our way out of town, we came across an unexpected delay. We needed to stop for sheep crossing the road, which was actually a delight, as we realized that was part of the charm of the town. Then, once the sheep moved out of the way, and after getting a little lost, we found ourselves following the cows home. With this being farmland and it having almost been dark, the farmers were calling their cows home and we just so happened to find ourselves in the herd. We were actually waiting until the cows came home (I use that expression all the time!)
This trip served as a reminder to make those unplanned stops – some are just as memorable as those that were planned well in advance.
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