I don’t know what it is but when you tell me a place is the “oldest”, I instantly feel an urge to check it out – especially if it’s in Europe. So, when I was in London, I just had to dine at Rules (oldest restaurant) and have a glass of wine (or maybe a couple) at Gordon’s (oldest wine bar). I am so happy I did too – each place’s exterior and interior told tales of ages past…and the food and wine weren’t bad either!
Rules Restaurant, located in Covent Garden, is the oldest restaurant in London (est. 1798), so it has been around for over 200 years and has been through a total of nine monarchies. Now that, is a lot of history! I had heard about Rules Restaurant but for some reason or another, we could never get our act together to make reservations before leaving on past trips to London. This past trip however, I made it a priority to go and booked two months in advance to ensure a prime-time slot for dinner. This place is popular with tourists and locals alike, so I suggest make a reservation on-line in advance as well.
The interior is elegant yet eclectic – you will see antlers on the walls mixed in with marble statues added to dark wood and red and gold fabrics throughout the restaurant. Literally hundreds of paintings, drawings and cartoons from local and famous artists adorn the walls. And there is a beautiful stained-glass ceiling that ties all the looks together. Some say the look is touristy, but I decided to see it as traditional and charming!
As one might expect by its age, Rules serves traditional style British food, specifically classic game cookery – like English-reared deer, squab, and grouse. I chuckled when I read the words “Game birds may contain lead shot” on the menu. Don’t worry if you are not into trying the game-thing though, the menu offers other selections. We both were feeling seafood that night, so my husband had scallops and I had the cod. But be sure to save room for a classic British dessert! The best part for me was the sticky toffee pudding (my all-time favorite) and this did not disappoint.
Overall the food was excellent, and the prices were reasonable. The average cost of a main dish is an affordable 26 pounds and, as you might expect, the wine list (by glass and bottle) is quite extensive (and reasonably priced) as well.
Now for the wining.
I actually heard about Gordon’s Wine Bar while we were wine tasting in Burgundy, France and our guide recommended that we go there. Later we found out that Gordon’s is the oldest wine bar in London (est.1890).
The building in which the bar is situated has housed many famous people through the years, including Rudyard Kipling in the 1890s. The management takes pride at the fact that they have maintained the original décor and have changed very little over the years, which rarely happens with all the modernization going on in the world. It doesn’t look like much from the sign outside, but don’t let that fool you!
When you walk in the old wooden walls are covered in original historical newspaper clippings from years past (talk about a space telling a story). The bar where you order drinks is directly in front when you walk in and the cellar, which resembles a dark cave, is located to the left – make sure to duck your head if you are tall though, you might hit the top of the cave ceiling if you don’t. To round out the atmosphere, the tables are candlelit which makes it extremely cozy. They don’t accept bookings so get there early – tables are on a first-come, first-served basis.
Seating is limited in the “cave” so I suggest having someone order your drinks at the bar and another one be the look-out person for an open table. Seating is also available outside, but in my opinion, the authentic vibe is inside the cave. Tables are situated very close to each other so more likely than not you will be talking to a neighbor or two. In fact, locals and tourists are friendly so you might even ask to share a table if you have been waiting awhile.
Sorry beer drinkers, they only sell wine. But, the prices are reasonable with several wines and sherries for around 6 pounds. For wine aficionados, there are certainly high-end options as well. I had never tried a Hungarian wine before, so I tried a Hungarian Sauvignon Blanc and it was delicious! If you decide to stay for a snack or meal, the menu includes a variety of cheeses and hot meal choices (I always prefer a good cheese plater to go with my wine but that’s just me).
There are many fabulous restaurants and wine bars in London and every type of food you can imagine in this fabulous city. But I would not pass up an opportunity to visit the heart of London in these old restaurants and bars. It made me appreciate the city that much more.
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