Last week I talked about exploring outside of Cologne, Germany for day trips and began with the lovely Düsseldorf. This week I am continuing north from Cologne to another smaller city, but just as interesting, the city of Essen – less than an hour’s train ride from Cologne.
Essen was once considered one of the world’s industrial powerhouses but has since become a city of culture, weaving its industrial history into what it is today. Essen’s sights are scattered throughout the city so you could plan on spending a couple of days here in order to see everything it has to offer.
I must admit we were fortunate to have friends who live in Essen (we actually met them at LAX a few years ago – that’s a story for another time) and they took us around but now I can share with you some of our favorite spots they showed us that are more local gems than tourist destinations – let’s go!
If you can only see one attraction in Essen, make it the Zollverein Coal Mine Complex. The former coal mill was once the world’s largest and most modern coal-mining facility but has been repurposed and turned into a recreational complex and a center for art and culture. It is not only an important part of 19th century Germany history but was made an UNESCO site in 2001. The mine is surprisingly beautiful in unexpected ways. Small group tours are available and incredibly interesting -- we took a tour through the coking plant and shafts through the conveyer belts and past the original machinery. During its prime, dignitaries from around the world came here and marveled at its state-of-the-art technology. Now we can admire not only the complexly detailed, coal mining process but the incredible facility this building has become. In fact, it’s so magnificent that couples use this location to get married. I don’t know if I blame them.
If you climb to the top, of the mine, you can get a panoramic view of Essen. Fun fact, the pool used during the summer, on-site, is turned in to an ice-skating rink during the winter. How fun is that! And the Ruhr Museum (on-site) is a great place to visit and refuel from all the touring and walking.
From coal we move on to steel to the Villa Hügel. This is a beautiful Neoclassical 19th century mansion (more like a palace really) built by steel industrialist Alfred Krupp. The Krupp family was one of the most powerful dynasties in Europe for over 400 years and the history is extremely interesting. The art and detailed woodwork inside are impressive but the villa is also surrounded by a lovely 70-acre park that overlooks the River Ruhr. This mini-palace is a wonderful visit, complete with stories and objects of the Krupp family. After visiting the mansion, take some time to walk around outside and find the lookout point, Korte Cliff -- the view of the River Ruhr is lovely from here.
So, once you see the Krupp house, you also have an opportunity to visit where and learn how all the steel was made. Landschaftspark, located in Duisburg (near Essen), is an industrial historic site turned in to a preserved park – kind of the same concept of Zollverein but as a public park. Plant-life and vegetation now are found where steel used to be manufactured – dressing up history without completely changing it! They even made some of the old structure into climbing walls. I’m pretty sure that wasn’t allowed back when it was a functioning steel mill!
Werden (a suburb of Essen) is a lovely area with a smaller village vibe. You will find cobblestone streets with cute shops and some of the best bakeries around. But the real gem is the beautiful church, Basilika St. Ludgerus. This beautiful church dates back to 804 AD but was destroyed by a fire and rebuilt in the late-Romanesque style in 1256. Some later buildings were added in the Baroque style in the 18th century. The interior is gorgeous – the detail and carvings are absolutely exquisite!
Broich Castle & Museum (Mülheim) is a fabulous place if you are a history buff. This castle is not as fancy as some but is fascinating for its pure historical value. The ruins found here are one of the oldest surviving early medieval fortification military camps. Set up in 883 AD to defend against the Vikings, it has been built on top of several times over the centuries since it’s original build. There is a small museum with interesting artifacts found at the site – including a prenuptial agreement from the 17th century and a coffin of one of the inhabitants who was murdered!
Lastly, Schlöss Borbeck is a gorgeous sight to see, especially at night. This palace received its Renaissance-Baroque appearance in the 18th century but was actually the favorite residence of nobility in the 14th century. It is spectacular also during the day as there is a stunning park on the grounds you may stroll — one of the largest in the Rhineland. Oh, and the beautiful palace isn’t complete without a moat of course!
I honestly didn’t know there would be so many things to do in Essen and therefore could have easily spent more time at each location. Nonetheless, it is another town that is worth a train ride for certain when you are visiting Cologne. Hopefully this persuades you to do so!
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