Croatia’s Capital: Zagreb Part One

Zagreb is the capital city and largest in Croatia (yes, we are back in Croatia). It's located in the northwest of the country along the River Sava and Mount Medvednica. It’s an easy-going town offering a very different flavor than the Mediterranean feel of the Adriatic coastal towns. This city is full of culture and cafes and feels similar to Vienna or Prague. It’s not very touristy but more business, politics, and culture (in fact it was known as the cultural center of Yugoslavia at one point). Although it may not be “touristy”, it was still fun to visit. With that being said, come along as I show you around this great little city.

First of all, Zagreb is divided into two halves, the Zagreb Upper town and Zagreb Lower Town. Zagreb Upper Town is the old city dating back to the 11th century, full of red tile roofs and cobblestone streets. It’s the most romantic part of Zagreb because of its medieval past and history. However, most of the “culture” and natural green space (such as parks) are in the Lower Town. This week I will primarily focus on the Upper and follow up next week with the Lower.

Did you know 92% of the inhabitants here are Roman Catholic (religion is a huge part of the Zagreb culture here)? Saint Mark’s Church is the most iconic out of all the churches due to its signature colorful, ceramic- tiled roof. It is one of the oldest buildings in Zagreb dating from the 13th century. The roof was more recently constructed in 1880 and on it, you will see the medieval coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia on the left side, and the emblem of Zagreb on the right. The detail on the roof is remarkable and a true work of art!

Although most of the museums are in the lower town, there are a few in Upper Town, and one is of particular interest – The Museum of Broken Relationships (yes it’s a real thing, I’m not kidding around). Interestingly, it is the most popular museum in Zagreb and was awarded the most creative museum in Europe. In a nutshell, the museum is dedicated to failed relationships. The exhibits include personal objects left over from former lovers accompanied by brief descriptions. From there. you can check out the nearby Southern Defense Tower not far away. A cannon shoots every day at noon from the tower which has been the tradition since medieval times when the town was under constant attack by the Turks. From here, you can see part of the original wall from the 13th century going into the city. Also from this point, you will have a beautiful view down below into the lower sections of the city.

Nearby, is St. Catherine’s Church -- a 300 year old church that is a simple building but so beautiful. In fact, it is the favorite for local weddings. You can just look at it and know why brides would fall in love with it even though it is relatively small.

On a grander scale, the Zagreb Cathedral (Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary) is Zagreb's most recognizable monument. The neo-Gothic spires dominate Zagreb's Upper Town, rising 108 meters high! The original cathedral was completed in 1217 but throughout a series of invasions, fires, and earthquakes it was reconstructed several times. It went through its last general restoration in 1880 including the addition of the two impressive neo-gothic bell-towers. The inside of the cathedral is very beautiful and quite impressive with strong elements of gothic design. It is one of the largest cathedrals in Europe --5,000 people fit inside when the Pope visited here last. Fun fact: the crystal chandeliers inside the cathedral actually came from Las Vegas! A little piece of home away from home here.

Around the corner from the Cathedral is the daily Farmers Market. There’s fresh produce and other amazing food items but there’s also a section dedicated to handmade things making it a great place to pick up authentic Zagreb souvenirs – or to just treat yourself.

The streets are fun just to stroll. As you go down the hill from Upper town to Lower town you will see some tall black glass buildings that don’t seem to belong around the baroque buildings of the past. Well, the locals call these towers “Monument of Socialism”. They are a very interesting contrast to the curvy and colorful details of the cities natural architectural design.

Another cute little street is Blood Bridge, which happens to also be one of the shortest streets in all of Europe (I don’t know the story of the seemingly gruesome name though). Of course, there is the local “Seen and be Seen Street” Ulica Ivana Tkalćića where locals come on Saturday mornings all dressed up to have coffee with friends and “be seen”. Tesla Street also has a nice assortment of baroque-style buildings to see including an old opera house (but oddly enough, not many Tesla’s were to be found).

Nearby from there is Stone Gate, the eastern gate to medieval Town, which is now a shrine. Accounts say that a huge fire in 1731 destroyed every part of the wooden gate except for the painting of the Virgin and Child (by an unknown 17th-century artist). The painting is now guarded by an impressive baroque fence that was built in 1778. People believe that the painting possesses miraculous powers and come regularly to pray, light candles and leave flowers. Some locals find it even more spiritual to pray here than at church. Square stone slabs are engraved with thanks and praise to the Virgin.

Around the corner from Stone Gate is the impressive statue of St. George on his horse and the dragon he had just slain (a good vs evil message here). All around this statue were beds of some sort of black flower. I thought they were tulips but I was informed that they were not, although no one told me what they were actually. Still, they seemed incredibly fitting at the foot of the slayed dragon.

As you walk down the hill towards Lower Town, you will come to Jelačić Square named after Josip Jelačić, an important Croatian military and political leader. This main square is the most common meeting place for people in Zagreb. There is an impressive statue of General Jelačić remembered for his military campaigns during the Revolutions of 1848. However, this square has existed since the 17th but didn’t earn its present name until 1848 after the Revolution. The present-day square features buildings belonging to different architectural styles. It is so interesting to see how it all blends together. It’s also fun watching all the locals and travelers alike gather in the square. The tourism board hires “characters” to play roles in Zagreb history (such as the General) and mingle in the crowd. Of course, I had to take part in that!

So far we have seen a lot in Upper Town but next week I will meet up with you back in Zagreb to explore Lower Town. The city has much more for you to see still.

Make sure to subscribe to receive my weekly blog posts directly to your email every Friday. You may also follow me on Instagram or Facebook under Late Bloomer Traveler where I share more brief highlights throughout the week. Would love for you to join our travel community and I’ll talk with you all next week!