Sometimes your “must see” destination leads you to other places you might not have visited otherwise but become unexpected delights. It is always a good idea to allow extra time for this while traveling to your “must see” destination.
I remember seeing a picture years ago of Mont Saint-Michel and it appeared to be a medieval castle in the middle of the ocean. I was so excited when we planned a trip to this great place that has been a site of Christian pilgrimage for centuries.
Mt St Michel was a monastery built on a rock in 708 AD on top of a hill that was (and still is) surrounded by tide twice a day. It took several centuries to complete and was the only part of Normandy not to be conquered by the English because this well fortified island provided a strong defense. Our visit here was amazing, but we did make two other stops to towns that were strong on their own merit and worth visiting too. I mentioned in my last blog post that you might be tempted to visit the D-Day beaches on the same day but I advised against this, which you will find out why if you keep reading.
We started our tour in Brittany in the historic walled city of Saint-Malo on the English Channel. It was fun walking around this cobblestone village imagining the days when pirates and privateers frequented its local pubs.
The medieval fortress was also impressive with cannons in place when they were needed to protect the city. The houses within the walls were interesting, as they appeared to blend in with the medieval defensive wall.
After Saint-Malo. we left for Mont Saint-Michel. As we got closer, the Abbey looked like a mirage in the middle of the ocean in the distance. The structure was impressive in sight and was just as I had imagined it to be.
Our van dropped us off in the car park. I mention this because this is where you will find places to eat. I recommend eating here now or get something to go and carrying it with you. There are only small snacks and desserts once you get to the abbey and you will get hungry from all the walking. We got some sandwiches to bring with us because we were in a hurry to get on with our tour. But I just have to mention, we got our sandwiches from a place with the whimsical cows in front of the store (affectionately known as the “pop cows”)
When you arrive you have two options to get to the Abbey itself: take a shuttle or take a 15-minute walk across a narrow road. The road was built in the late 1800s to connect the island to the mainland. Until that time, the Abbey was only accessible during low tides. How crazy is that! Imagine only being able to leave your home when the water was low enough for you to walk across the street. It’s like being stuck on an island but also being within reach of the mainland. Pretty cool if you ask me.
When you reach the Abbey, you have two options to reach the top. You could take the extremely steep stairs to the left or you could take the very crowded main street to the right. I figured the monks had been taking the stairs to the left for centuries in bare feet so I certainly could manage. It was steep but worth it to avoid the crowds and it gave us a chance to see more of the nooks and crannies of the structure too.
The centerpiece of the abbey, of course, was the church (and for very good reason). This was a blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, which made it dark yet inviting at the same time. Parts feel very cold yet other parts feel bright and comforting. It was a beautiful juxtaposition that created this really interesting architectural tension (something our young churches lack).
The large outside garden was peaceful and probably a welcomed break for the monks after hours of praying and dedication inside the enclosed abbey. It also gave visitors a well-needed break from all the levels involved walking around this impressive structure too.
We spent half of the day at Mont Saint-Michel and then were on our way to Dinan. This “jewel of Brittany” is a well-preserved medieval village built on a hill along the Rance River. We walked around this quaint quiet town and admired the interesting houses.
Next, we saw an incredible church, St Saviour’s Basilica, which was built in 1000 AD and was absolutely stunning! It was hard to imagine that this gorgeous church was just a neighborhood church in this very small village!
And so, we finished the long but incredible day in Dinan and headed back to Paris on the train. I couldn’t help thinking that this day fit the description that “It’s not the destination but the journey”. Of course, I was so excited to finally see Mont Saint Michel but almost equally as delighted having the opportunity to visit Saint-Malo and Dinan too. So, when you are planning to go somewhere, just make sure to check the route and see what else might pop up. You never know what you might come across on your journey.
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